The neck is from a Gibson Ripper. The body is built from a resawn piece of mahogany. The two pieces were book-matched, glued and the shape cut on the bandsaw. I made a router jig to cut the neck socket. The original was just glued in the socket but I’m thinking about adding a couple screws to anchor the neck. The bridge, pickup and electronics are sitting on my desk waiting for some spare time to route the body and wire it up.
This was the preamp/mixer/power amp module from an old Wurlitzer reed organ. No one seemed to like the sound of the organ at the studio I was running at the time. The owner offered me the organ in trade for bringing in my Hammond M3 that wasn’t getting much use at home. The impedance of the reed pickups were pretty close to most guitar pickups. So one night I thought maybe I could use it as a guitar amp. I plugged my guitar straight into the treble input and it sounded pretty great. So I dismantled the organ. Cut out pieces of the top and front of the case to make the amp housing and installed the speaker, amp, fuse box, on/off switch, standby switch and 1/4″ jack. I added about ten feet of cable to the volume pedal. And it’s been my main guitar amp ever since.
These single driver speakers are called the Merrill Zigmahornets. The drivers are Merrill DCA4s. Dave Merrill spec’d the speakers and design the cabinet. They sound great and are cheap and fun to build. The drivers are only $65/pr and the cabinets can be built from a single sheet of plywood in a weekend. Here are a couple reviews:
6moon Zigmahornet Review
Enjoy the Music Zigmahornet Review
These two projects get used daily. The first is a prep station. It has a broad flat service for food prep, an ergonomic space for the compost bucket, a shelf for the microwave, a space for the recycling, a multi section utensil organizer and some general purpose storage at the bottom. Removing the microwave from the counter doubles the amount of useable work space in the kitchen. Having multiple areas for food prep makes cooking with friends and family so much easier and enjoyable.
This last project has become our kitchen table but it was originally intended to be my desk. The first Thanksgiving Bre and I hosted we ended up using it as a second table. It worked so well that it never made it back to my office. The original legs were designed for a single person sitting at the broad front side. So they didn’t allow much leg room for anyone sitting at the ends of the the table. I replaced them with a pedestal style support that allows much more leg room all around the table. It is a perfect size for a couple. It doesn’t take up much room but can still fit four if we have guests.
I made this desk for my wife’s birthday a couple years ago. The design was inspired by classic secretary desks. But the impetus of the design came from the old PO Box doors I found on Etsy for a few dollars a piece.
It ended up with an interesting contrast between natural and industrial elements. The top with natural edges and the figured trim against the metal and glass doors, steel supports and socket head screws.
The Trapezoidal Screen Door
Square joints are for squares.
When Bre and I moved into this house a few years ago it didn’t have a screen door. Because it’s the desert we like to leave our doors and windows open the majority of the time. So one of my first projects after setting up the new shop was to build this screen door.
I had some salvaged Douglas Fir for the rails and stiles. It was fairly knotty lumber and had holes from bolts and nails that needed to be filled as well. I joined and planed them down to be square and to a consistent thickness and then filled all the knots and holes with epoxy. This makes the wood more stable over time. I took measurements of the height and width of door jamb. The width was relatively consistent from bottom to top but there was a difference in height from left to right. But it wasn’t much more than an inch so I figured once the door was built I would use a block plane to make the final fit in the door jamb.
To join the stiles to the rails I used a tongue and groove joint with round coping and made a little mortising jig for the hinges. After cutting the rails to length I dry fit the pieces, squared them up, chiseled all the joining round overs and then glued it up. After sanding I hand wiped a diluted polyurethane outdoor varnish on in thin coatings. It took about six applications to build up an appropriate film. The screen material is the same found in a wrought iron security door. Home Depot sells sheets for ~$20.
All the hardware is installed and a perfectly rectangular door is ready to be installed in the door jam. The first thing I noticed with the door propped up next to the jam is the concrete was sloped and slanted. So the back of the bottom stile had to be severely rounded over and the entire bottom had to be trimmed by a couple of degrees. The top was far worse. It was slanted by almost five degrees. I realized that I should have checked the jam for square when taking those original measurements. The height from left to right was only off by an inch or so but the amount needed to be trimmed from the door was more than you could do with a block plane. So I measured the two angles and set up the table saw to make the cuts. Using the miter gauge and an outfeed support positioned off the side of the table the top and bottom stiles are no longer parallel. Parallel rails and converging stiles: It’s a Trapezoidal Screen Door.